Bright Copper
A deep, mirror polished copper finish for lighting, hardware and decorative pieces, sealed with a clear coat so the color stays rich instead of darkening.
Copper plating in Seattle for Craftsman owners in Wallingford and Ballard, restaurants on Capitol Hill, and offices from South Lake Union to Pioneer Square. Send the parts to our shop in Oceanside, California, by UPS or FedEx ground. They usually take 2 to 4 business days each way, and the return is insured.
Brick, timber and glass, old and new side by side.
Seattle's neighborhoods each have their own look. Pioneer Square has brick buildings from right after the 1889 fire, the fishing fleet still ties up near Ballard, and Wallingford and Queen Anne are full of early 1900s homes. Copper fits all of them, from a restored porch light to new lobby trim.
Plating is like dressing for a Seattle day. You start with a base layer, add something warm and finish with a shell that keeps rain out. On metal, the base is clean, polished steel or brass, the warm layer is copper, and the shell is clear lacquer that keeps moisture off the color.
Restaurants and bars here favor copper because it glows on gray afternoons. Tech offices order warm accents for lobbies, homeowners send original fixtures, and maritime businesses sometimes need copper on boat hardware or electrical parts. Each kind gets the same inspection.
Tell us what the part is and what you want it to become. Send a few photos and the base metal if you know it, and we will recommend the right copper process, explain the preparation it needs and send back a written quote.
Bright copper for kitchens and bars, satin for door hardware and modern lighting, antique for Craftsman and maritime pieces that should look like they've been around a while.
A deep, mirror polished copper finish for lighting, hardware and decorative pieces, sealed with a clear coat so the color stays rich instead of darkening.
A brushed, low glare copper with a soft grain. It hides fingerprints and light wear, a favorite for door hardware, cabinet pulls and interior trim.
Copper that is darkened and then relieved by hand, so the high points glow while recesses stay deep brown. Ideal for period restorations and rustic designs.
A heavy acid copper layer that is cut and buffed flat before nickel and chrome. It fills pits and polishing marks and is the foundation of every show chrome job.
A thin first layer that locks onto difficult metals like zinc die cast, steel and brass, giving every layer that follows a solid bond.
Functional copper for conductivity, solderability and heat treat masking. Plated to a specified thickness on bus bars, connectors, shafts and gears.
Drag the handle on any photo to see the part as it arrived and as it left the shop in copper.
Before
Worn, spotted brass with decades of tarnish. Stripped, polished and plated in bright copper, then sealed with a clear lacquer so the warm color stays put.
Before
A full set of levers, plates and hinges with peeling plating. Stripped, copper plated and hand antiqued so the raised details stand out against darker recesses.
Before
Pitted metal with failed chrome. Stripped down, built up in heavy acid copper, then cut and buffed flat to create a perfect base for nickel and chrome.
Big order or a single knob, same care.
Homeowners send us one faucet. Companies in and out of state send production runs of hundreds or thousands of parts. Both get a written quote and the same inspection before anything ships back.
Copper bonds to more base metals than almost any other plating, but each one still needs the right cleaning and the right first layer.
Cleaned and activated, then given a copper strike before the main copper layer. Rusted or pitted steel is stripped and copper filled until the surface is smooth.
Plate beautifully once cleaned. A common way to give brass lighting, hardware and fixtures a true copper color without replacing the part.
Porous and reactive, so it needs a gentle copper strike before anything else. Pits are copper filled and hand buffed flat, the slow work most shops avoid.
Receives a zincate pretreatment so copper can bond to a surface that would otherwise oxidize instantly. Used for wheels, housings and decorative castings.
Its oxide layer resists bonding, so it gets a nickel strike first. After that it takes copper like any other metal, for a warm look on a durable base.
Solid copper can be replated to restore its surface, and other alloys are reviewed case by case. Send the alloy or a photo and we will confirm before you ship.
The same metal, three different goals. Knowing which one your part needs decides how it is prepared, how thick the copper goes on and how it is finished.
A Seattle order follows these five steps, and we keep you posted throughout.
Show us the part and tell us the finish you want: bright, satin, antique or a base for chrome.
We confirm the base metal and the prep it needs, then send a written quote within 24 business hours.
Damp air leaves Seattle fixtures with corrosion in their joints. We strip, clean and polish every piece down to sound metal before copper goes on, since lasting results start there.
Old finishes come off, the surface is repaired and polished, then struck and plated in copper.
Parts are buffed, brushed or antiqued, sealed when needed, inspected and shipped back insured.
Every copper finish and copper related service we run in house.
From custom builders to industrial manufacturers, our clients trust us to deliver the same result every time.
Restaurants, coffee shops, tech offices, maritime businesses, Craftsman homeowners, architects and sign makers across Seattle send us copper work.
Slot machine trim, table rails, bar fixtures and gaming floor accents in bright or antique copper, made to glow under bright lights around the clock. Trusted by casino resorts across North County San Diego.
Pendants, sconces, lamp bases and accessories finished in bright, satin or antique copper.
Door handles, hinges, cabinet pulls and railings given a warm copper finish that matches across a project.
Bar rails, foot rests, tap handles and restaurant fixtures that bring copper warmth to a space.
Bus bars, terminals and connectors plated for conductivity and easy soldering.
Gears, shafts and steel parts selectively copper plated to mask areas during carburizing.
We have been running copper tanks since 1989. Restorers, designers, builders and manufacturers send us parts because the copper work underneath is what makes the finish on top last.
Send a photo of your part and receive a no obligation quote within 24 hours.
Every part leaves our shop backed by our craftsmanship guarantee. If you are not satisfied, we make it right.
A single fixture or a full production run, shipped to us from any state and returned insured.
Most projects are completed within 3 to 5 weeks. Expedited Orders: 5 to 7 business days. Contact us for availability.
Copper shows everything. Every scratch left in the base metal and every shortcut in the prep ends up visible in the finish, so we do not take shortcuts.
Difficult metals get the right first layer before the main copper goes on, so the finish stays bonded and does not peel or blister.
Copper is cut and buffed by hand between stages, which is what gives decorative copper its depth and chrome its flawless base.
Finished copper is inspected for even color, gloss and texture, and matched to your sample when you send one.
Soft copper scratches easily, so every finished piece is wrapped separately and packed to arrive exactly as it left the shop.
Gray skies, steady drizzle, lacquer that stays clear.
Seattle rain is more drizzle than downpour, but it keeps outdoor fixtures damp for months. Bare copper darkens fast and can streak green where water runs. For even color, lacquer outdoor pieces and hang them where an eave keeps most of the rain off.
Near the Sound, salt air adds to the moisture, so rinse fixtures on waterfront homes with fresh water every so often and dry them. Inside, steam from cooking and espresso machines leaves a light film, so wipe nearby copper with warm soapy water every week or two.
If you prefer a living finish, we can leave the copper unsealed so it develops its own patina over time. That choice works well on rustic lighting, garden pieces and bar tops where the aging is part of the character.
When a lacquered piece starts to show dark spots, the coating has failed somewhere. Bring it back and we can strip the old lacquer, rebuff the copper and seal it again, usually without replating the whole part.
Copper Plating Gallery
Bright, satin and antique copper on lighting, hardware and hospitality pieces, plus functional copper for electrical and industrial work.
Remove glass and bulbs, wrap each part, and use plenty of padding so nothing moves on the long trip south.
Send photos of every piece and the copper finish you want. You receive a written quote and lead time, usually the same business day. Always wait for a quote number before shipping.
Wrap each part individually so metal never touches metal, and use at least three inches of padding on every side. Long trim and lighting arms should be double boxed.
Declare the real value with the carrier and email us the tracking number so we can log your parts the day they arrive.
When the copper work is done we photograph the finished pieces for your approval, then pack them in fresh materials and ship them back insured.
Every copper job is stripped, plated, buffed and inspected in our own facility in North County San Diego.
Copper, nickel, chrome and metal finishing in San Diego County since 1989.
Seattle parcels usually spend 2 to 4 business days with UPS or FedEx ground before arriving in Oceanside, California. We receive Monday to Friday, 8 to 4 Pacific, and every finished order goes home insured.
Copper plating pages for nearby Washington cities.
Frequently Asked Questions
Seattle homeowners, restaurants and maritime businesses ask us these about copper.
Well, especially under an eave. Lacquer keeps the steady drizzle off the copper, so the color stays even through the season. It eventually wears where water runs or hands touch, and we can strip and reseal it. Fully exposed pieces wear faster, so mount copper where a roof edge shelters it.
Yes. Fixtures from that era are usually brass or steel and plate well once old lacquer, paint and corrosion are stripped. Remove glass shades and wiring parts if you can. Point out any stamps or maker's marks, and we'll take care to keep them readable after plating.
Decorative trim like side panels, caps and knobs often can, if it's metal and comes off the machine. We don't plate internal parts that touch water or steam. Copper looks great on a machine in satin or bright. Tell us the model and send photos of the parts you'd like done.
Copper is soft and builds up smoothly, so it fills fine scratches and evens out the surface before harder layers go on. That leveling helps nickel and chrome look glassy. On a copper finish, the same quality means small marks in the base metal disappear under the plating.
Look at the wood and the light. Dark fir or stained oak trim usually pairs best with antique copper, which echoes the shadows in the grain. Bright copper suits painted trim and rooms that need a lift on gray days. If you can't decide, plate one piece first and live with it.
Yes, and most of our work starts that way. We strip the old plating down to the base metal, repair what needs repair, then plate it fresh. New plating over a failing layer never lasts, so we don't do it.
We do. Along with single pieces for homeowners, we run batches of hundreds or thousands of parts for companies in California and other states. Send a photo of a sample, the quantity and the finish, and we'll quote the whole run.
Steel, stainless steel, aluminum, brass, bronze, copper, pot metal and zamak. Some of them need extra prep so the plating bonds well, and we'll tell you up front if your part does.