Cleats and Chocks
Horn cleats, flip up cleats and bow chocks take rope wear and salt every day. We strip them, fill the pits and rebuild a hard, bright chrome that looks like the day it was cast.
Cleats, chocks, hawse pipes, steering wheels, rail fittings and cabin hardware, stripped down and replated in chrome or nickel by hand in our Oceanside shop, a short drive from the harbor.
Small Fittings That Make a Boat Look Cared For
Walk any dock and you can tell which boats are loved by their hardware. Bright cleats, clean chocks and a shining wheel say the owner pays attention. Pitted chrome, rust stains running down from a fitting or a bow eye gone green tell the opposite story, even when the hull and the brightwork are in great shape.
Salt air is hard on plated metal. Once moisture finds a tiny crack in the chrome, it works under the surface and lifts the finish from below. Polishing will not stop it. The fix is to strip the old plating completely, clean up the damage underneath and plate the part again with a full copper, nickel and chrome stack, the way good marine hardware was finished in the first place.
That is the work we do every week. We restore hardware from classic wooden runabouts, sailboats, sportfishers and modern yachts. Many owners bring us original fittings that are no longer made, or pieces where a replacement would never quite match the rest of the boat. Saving them keeps the boat looking right and often costs less than hunting down new parts.
We focus on smaller hardware because it ships easily and affordably from anywhere in the country. Send a few photos, tell us what each piece is and where it sits on the boat, and we will send back a written quote.
These are the fittings boat owners send us most. If it bolts to a deck, a rail, a helm or a cabin door, there is a good chance we have plated one like it.
Horn cleats, flip up cleats and bow chocks take rope wear and salt every day. We strip them, fill the pits and rebuild a hard, bright chrome that looks like the day it was cast.
Metal wheels, spokes, hubs and center caps restored in show bright chrome or polished nickel. Wheels with wood or rubber rims are reviewed first so we can plan around them.
Rail ends, tees, elbows, stanchion bases and mounting flanges. We match finishes across a full set so the rail line looks even from bow to stern.
Classic bronze hawse pipes, fairleads and chafe plates that guide lines and chain. Grooves worn by years of rope are smoothed before the new plating goes on.
Turnbuckle bodies, pad eyes, deck rings, bow eyes and cable clamps. We restore the finish and the look; structural parts should still be checked by a rigger.
Door latches, hinges, pulls, cabin lights, vents and small trim. The interior pieces that set the tone the moment someone steps aboard.
Slide the handle on each photo to compare a fitting the way it came off the boat and the way it went back on.
Before
Chrome lifting in flakes and green corrosion showing through. Stripped to bare bronze, pits filled with copper, then finished in bright nickel and chrome.
Before
Rust spots and cloudy chrome on the spokes and center hub. Each spoke was cleaned up, polished and plated again so the helm shines as a matched piece.
Before
Deep rope wear and dark corrosion around the opening. The grooves were smoothed and leveled with copper before nickel and chrome brought back a clean, even shine.
Most marine hardware fails in one of three ways. Here is what each one looks like and what we do about it.
Big order or a single knob, same care.
Homeowners send us one faucet. Companies in and out of state send production runs of hundreds or thousands of parts. Both get a written quote and the same inspection before anything ships back.
Boat hardware comes in more alloys than most people expect. Each one needs its own prep before it can take a lasting finish.
The traditional choice for cleats, hawse pipes and through hull fittings. Bronze takes copper, nickel and chrome beautifully once the corrosion is cleaned away.
Common on cabin hardware, lights and older trim. Brass polishes up well and plates evenly, making it one of the easiest metals to bring back.
Needs a nickel strike before chrome will hold. Some stainless only needs a good polish, and we will tell you when plating is not worth it.
Found on many older boats, especially trim, horns and light housings. Soft and porous, so it is filled with copper and leveled slowly by hand.
Older wheels, brackets and fittings are often steel. Rust is stripped away completely and the surface is built back up before the final chrome.
Aluminum needs special pretreatment and is reviewed part by part. Send a photo or the alloy name and we will confirm before you ship.
A single cleat or every fitting on the boat, the steps are the same.
Take the hardware off the boat, snap a few photos and note where each piece goes.
We look at the metal and the damage, then send a written price and lead time within 24 business hours.
Send the parts with your quote number, or bring them by our Oceanside shop.
Old plating comes off, pits and grooves are filled and leveled, then copper, nickel and chrome go on.
Every piece is checked in daylight, wrapped on its own and shipped back insured, ready to bolt on.
A quick list of the boat and yacht hardware we restore and the finishes we offer.
From custom builders to industrial manufacturers, our clients trust us to deliver the same result every time.
We have been plating in Oceanside since 1989, close enough to the coast to see what salt air does to metal every day. Boat owners, captains and restorers trust us with fittings they cannot easily replace.
Send a photo of your hardware and receive a no obligation quote within 24 hours.
Every part leaves our shop backed by our craftsmanship guarantee. If you are not satisfied, we make it right.
Whether your boat is in San Diego, the Great Lakes or Florida, small fittings ship to us easily and return insured.
Most projects are completed within 3 to 5 weeks. Expedited Orders: 5 to 7 business days. Contact us for availability.
Private owners, working boats and waterfront businesses all count on hardware that looks good and holds up near the water.
The same rail fittings, stanchion bases and cleat style hardware we restore for boats show up on bar rails, lounges and waterfront decks at casino resorts. Trusted by casino resorts across North County San Diego.
Original fittings for vintage runabouts and wooden boats, restored so the hardware matches the varnish and the history.
Rail fittings, cleats and helm hardware refinished so every piece on deck matches.
Working boats that see heavy use and daily salt spray, brought back to a clean look between seasons.
Dock cleats, signage hardware and clubhouse fixtures restored in batches with a consistent finish.
Shops rebuilding boats for clients send us the hardware so they can focus on the hull and the woodwork.
Marine hardware lives a hard life. A quick polish and a thin coat will not survive one season, so every piece gets the full treatment.
Old plating is removed down to bare metal, so no hidden corrosion is left behind to push the new finish off.
Copper levels the surface, nickel adds the corrosion barrier and chrome seals it with a hard, bright top layer.
Finished parts are checked under natural light, where every flaw shows, before they are approved to ship.
Cleats, rail fittings and hardware sets are tagged and returned together, so pairs and matching pieces stay matched.
Keep It Bright Season After Season
Fresh chrome is tough, but salt never takes a day off. The single best habit is a fresh water rinse after every trip. Salt crystals left to dry on a fitting pull in moisture overnight and slowly work on any weak spot. Rinse, then wipe the hardware dry with a soft towel.
Every few weeks, clean plated fittings with mild soap and water. A light coat of a marine metal protectant or a quality wax adds a thin barrier against spray and makes the next cleaning easier. Avoid scouring pads, steel wool and harsh rust removers on chrome; they leave fine scratches where corrosion can start.
Pay attention to where hardware meets the deck. Water that sits under a cleat or a rail base is often what starts the trouble, so keep the bedding sealant in good shape. When you reinstall restored parts, use fresh sealant and stainless or bronze fasteners that suit the fitting.
If you see a small spot of rust or lifting chrome, catch it early. Send us a photo; sometimes one piece can be redone before the damage spreads to the rest of the set.
Small Hardware Travels Well, Big Pieces Need a Plan
Most boat hardware is compact and heavy for its size, which makes it a great fit for mail in service. A box of cleats, chocks and rail fittings packs tight, ships at a fair price and comes back the same way. Owners from both coasts and the lakes in between send us their fittings this way.
Long rails, bow pulpits, towers and big frames are another matter. We can talk about them, but the shipping and handling can cost more than the plating itself. For boats kept around San Diego, Orange County or Riverside County, the easiest path for larger items is to bring them to the shop.
If you are not sure where your parts fall, send photos with rough measurements. We will tell you honestly whether shipping makes sense before you spend anything.
Restored Marine Hardware Gallery
Cleats, chocks, hawse pipes, wheels and cabin hardware from boats and yachts, restored in our Oceanside shop.
Boat owners from coast to coast send us their fittings by mail. These steps keep everything safe on the way here and back.
Email photos of each fitting and tell us the finish you want. We reply with a written price and lead time, usually the same business day. Please wait for your quote number before shipping.
Wrap each fitting separately so metal never rubs against metal. Heavy bronze pieces can scratch each other badly in transit, so use plenty of padding.
Bag fasteners with their fitting and mark pairs, port and starboard, or bow and stern. Insure the box for its real value and email us the tracking number.
When the work is done we send photos for your approval, then repack everything in fresh materials and ship it back insured.
Boat owners around Southern California are welcome to drop off hardware at our shop in North County San Diego, just inland from Oceanside Harbor.
Chrome and nickel restoration for boat and yacht hardware since 1989.
Owners who keep their boats in Oceanside Harbor, Mission Bay, Shelter Island, Dana Point or Newport bring us their hardware regularly. Farther away? Small fittings ship easily from every state.
Select your city for boat hardware turnaround times and drop off options in your area.
Frequently Asked Questions
What boat and yacht owners ask most before sending us their fittings. Still have a question? Call the shop or send a message.
It depends mostly on the condition. A cleat with light dulling needs far less work than one with deep pitting, green corrosion or rope grooves. Size, metal type and how many pieces you send also matter, and sets usually cost less per piece. Send photos and we return a written quote within 24 business hours.
Plated the right way, yes. We build each part with copper, then nickel, then chrome, and the nickel layer is what does most of the work against corrosion. No finish is maintenance free on the water, though. A fresh water rinse after each trip and an occasional wipe with a protectant go a long way.
Yes. Stainless needs a special nickel strike before chrome will bond to it. Often, though, stainless hardware only needs a good polish to look new again. Send photos and we will tell you which option makes sense, even if it means less work for us.
Almost always. The green is surface corrosion, and bronze underneath is usually solid. We clean it down to healthy metal, fill any pits and replate it. The only fittings we turn down are ones where corrosion has eaten through or cracked the casting.
Yes. Metal wheels, spokes, hubs and center caps are some of our favorite pieces. If your wheel has a wood or rubber rim, send photos first; the rim may need to come off, and we will talk through the plan before you ship.
We restore the finish, not the strength. Plating does not repair cracks or worn metal, and we may decline parts that look compromised. For anything that holds rigging or a load, have a rigger inspect it before and after. Cleats, chocks, rail fittings and trim are the best fit for this service.
Request a quote first, then wrap each fitting separately with plenty of padding, bag the fasteners with their parts and label pairs. Insure the box for its real value and email us the tracking number. We plate, inspect and ship everything back insured.
Of course. We are in Oceanside, a short drive from the harbor. Dropping off is easiest for local boat owners and for anything too long or heavy to ship. Give us a call ahead so we know to expect you.