Bright Copper
A deep, mirror polished copper finish for lighting, hardware and decorative pieces, sealed with a clear coat so the color stays rich instead of darkening.
Copper plating in Lansing for homeowners in Old Town and REO Town, office tenants near the Capitol, and the auto suppliers spread across Ingham and Eaton counties. Box up your parts and send them to our Oceanside, California shop. We plate them in copper, inspect each one and insure the return.
Government offices, old neighborhoods, and lots of metal.
Lansing has been Michigan's capital since the 1840s and an auto town for more than a century. Near the river, REO Town and Old Town carry that history in brick storefronts and older homes. That means doorplates, light fixtures and railings that have been painted over or polished thin and now need real attention.
Picture one tarnished push plate from an Old Town shop. It arrives in a padded box and gets a tag with your name. We strip the old coating, sand out scratches, and polish it smooth. It's cleaned again, plated in copper, buffed to satin, sealed and inspected, then packed back up with its tag still on.
Most Lansing work comes from small business owners on Michigan Avenue, landlords fixing up older rentals, and the engineering and supplier shops around the auto plants that need copper for conductivity or as a test finish. We take a single plate or several hundred brackets.
Tell us what the part is and what you want it to become. Send a few photos and the base metal if you know it, and we will recommend the right copper process, explain the preparation it needs and send back a written quote.
Lansing customers pick satin copper for storefronts and offices, antique copper for older homes off Washington Avenue, and bright bare copper for parts that need to conduct.
A deep, mirror polished copper finish for lighting, hardware and decorative pieces, sealed with a clear coat so the color stays rich instead of darkening.
A brushed, low glare copper with a soft grain. It hides fingerprints and light wear, a favorite for door hardware, cabinet pulls and interior trim.
Copper that is darkened and then relieved by hand, so the high points glow while recesses stay deep brown. Ideal for period restorations and rustic designs.
A heavy acid copper layer that is cut and buffed flat before nickel and chrome. It fills pits and polishing marks and is the foundation of every show chrome job.
A thin first layer that locks onto difficult metals like zinc die cast, steel and brass, giving every layer that follows a solid bond.
Functional copper for conductivity, solderability and heat treat masking. Plated to a specified thickness on bus bars, connectors, shafts and gears.
Drag the handle on any photo to see the part as it arrived and as it left the shop in copper.
Before
Worn, spotted brass with decades of tarnish. Stripped, polished and plated in bright copper, then sealed with a clear lacquer so the warm color stays put.
Before
A full set of levers, plates and hinges with peeling plating. Stripped, copper plated and hand antiqued so the raised details stand out against darker recesses.
Before
Pitted metal with failed chrome. Stripped down, built up in heavy acid copper, then cut and buffed flat to create a perfect base for nickel and chrome.
Big order or a single knob, same care.
Homeowners send us one faucet. Companies in and out of state send production runs of hundreds or thousands of parts. Both get a written quote and the same inspection before anything ships back.
Copper bonds to more base metals than almost any other plating, but each one still needs the right cleaning and the right first layer.
Cleaned and activated, then given a copper strike before the main copper layer. Rusted or pitted steel is stripped and copper filled until the surface is smooth.
Plate beautifully once cleaned. A common way to give brass lighting, hardware and fixtures a true copper color without replacing the part.
Porous and reactive, so it needs a gentle copper strike before anything else. Pits are copper filled and hand buffed flat, the slow work most shops avoid.
Receives a zincate pretreatment so copper can bond to a surface that would otherwise oxidize instantly. Used for wheels, housings and decorative castings.
Its oxide layer resists bonding, so it gets a nickel strike first. After that it takes copper like any other metal, for a warm look on a durable base.
Solid copper can be replated to restore its surface, and other alloys are reviewed case by case. Send the alloy or a photo and we will confirm before you ship.
The same metal, three different goals. Knowing which one your part needs decides how it is prepared, how thick the copper goes on and how it is finished.
Five steps, the same for a landlord with ten knobs as for an engineering shop with a pallet.
Show us the part and tell us the finish you want: bright, satin, antique or a base for chrome.
We confirm the base metal and the prep it needs, then send a written quote within 24 business hours.
Tape the box seams, put each part in its own wrap, and add a note with your name and email. From Lansing, ground shipping usually takes 3 to 5 business days to reach our dock in Oceanside.
Old finishes come off, the surface is repaired and polished, then struck and plated in copper.
Parts are buffed, brushed or antiqued, sealed when needed, inspected and shipped back insured.
Every copper finish and copper related service we run in house.
From custom builders to industrial manufacturers, our clients trust us to deliver the same result every time.
We see Lansing work from auto suppliers, state and insurance offices, rental and property management, and owners of older homes and storefronts.
Slot machine trim, table rails, bar fixtures and gaming floor accents in bright or antique copper, made to glow under bright lights around the clock. Trusted by casino resorts across North County San Diego.
Pendants, sconces, lamp bases and accessories finished in bright, satin or antique copper.
Door handles, hinges, cabinet pulls and railings given a warm copper finish that matches across a project.
Bar rails, foot rests, tap handles and restaurant fixtures that bring copper warmth to a space.
Bus bars, terminals and connectors plated for conductivity and easy soldering.
Gears, shafts and steel parts selectively copper plated to mask areas during carburizing.
We have been running copper tanks since 1989. Restorers, designers, builders and manufacturers send us parts because the copper work underneath is what makes the finish on top last.
Send a photo of your part and receive a no obligation quote within 24 hours.
Every part leaves our shop backed by our craftsmanship guarantee. If you are not satisfied, we make it right.
A single fixture or a full production run, shipped to us from any state and returned insured.
Most projects are completed within 3 to 5 weeks. Expedited Orders: 5 to 7 business days. Contact us for availability.
Copper shows everything. Every scratch left in the base metal and every shortcut in the prep ends up visible in the finish, so we do not take shortcuts.
Difficult metals get the right first layer before the main copper goes on, so the finish stays bonded and does not peel or blister.
Copper is cut and buffed by hand between stages, which is what gives decorative copper its depth and chrome its flawless base.
Finished copper is inspected for even color, gloss and texture, and matched to your sample when you send one.
Soft copper scratches easily, so every finished piece is wrapped separately and packed to arrive exactly as it left the shop.
Gray winters, damp springs. Seal the copper well.
Lansing springs are wet, and the Grand and Red Cedar rivers keep the air damp for weeks. Unsealed copper darkens fast in that weather. Lacquered pieces only need a damp cloth now and then, followed by a dry one, and they keep their tone through the whole season.
For storefront hardware that hundreds of hands touch each day, plan a gentle wash with soapy water once a week. Keep glass cleaner off the copper, since many sprays contain ammonia that clouds lacquer. If the finish wears through after years of use, we can strip and plate it again.
If you prefer a living finish, we can leave the copper unsealed so it develops its own patina over time. That choice works well on rustic lighting, garden pieces and bar tops where the aging is part of the character.
When a lacquered piece starts to show dark spots, the coating has failed somewhere. Bring it back and we can strip the old lacquer, rebuff the copper and seal it again, usually without replating the whole part.
Copper Plating Gallery
Bright, satin and antique copper on lighting, hardware and hospitality pieces, plus functional copper for electrical and industrial work.
Packing for the trip out of mid Michigan is easy if you follow these steps.
Send photos of every piece and the copper finish you want. You receive a written quote and lead time, usually the same business day. Always wait for a quote number before shipping.
Wrap each part individually so metal never touches metal, and use at least three inches of padding on every side. Long trim and lighting arms should be double boxed.
Declare the real value with the carrier and email us the tracking number so we can log your parts the day they arrive.
When the copper work is done we photograph the finished pieces for your approval, then pack them in fresh materials and ship them back insured.
Every copper job is stripped, plated, buffed and inspected in our own facility in North County San Diego.
Copper, nickel, chrome and metal finishing in San Diego County since 1989.
Every Ingham County order travels to Oceanside, California by ground and returns the same way, insured. Plan on about 3 to 5 business days in each direction, and we'll send tracking numbers so you always know where the box is.
Copper plating pages for nearby Michigan cities:
Frequently Asked Questions
comes down to honest advice, careful prep and a finish built for mid Michigan weather.
Yes. Push plates and kick plates are usually brass or steel, and both take copper well after we strip them. We polish out the scuffs left by years of hands and boots, plate them, and seal them so daily traffic doesn't wear the color off quickly.
We do. Engineering teams around Lansing sometimes need a copper layer on prototype brackets, contacts or housings to try out a design. Send the drawing or a photo and mark which areas must stay bare. We'll tell you plainly whether the part fits our tanks.
It holds up well when it's sealed. Tenants are rarely gentle with knobs and cabinet pulls, so we suggest satin copper under lacquer, which hides fingerprints and small marks. Plating the hardware you already own also keeps every unit in the building matching.
Bright copper is polished to a mirror, like a new penny. Antique copper is darkened, then lightly buffed so the raised areas glow and the recesses stay deep brown. Antique fits older Lansing houses, while bright suits modern spaces and conductive parts.
Not directly. Chrome is too hard and slick for copper to grip, so we strip it first and prep the metal underneath. Fixtures from the 1950s often have steel or brass under the chrome, and both plate nicely in copper once they're clean.
Yes, and most of our work starts that way. We strip the old plating down to the base metal, repair what needs repair, then plate it fresh. New plating over a failing layer never lasts, so we don't do it.
We do. Along with single pieces for homeowners, we run batches of hundreds or thousands of parts for companies in California and other states. Send a photo of a sample, the quantity and the finish, and we'll quote the whole run.
Steel, stainless steel, aluminum, brass, bronze, copper, pot metal and zamak. Some of them need extra prep so the plating bonds well, and we'll tell you up front if your part does.