Bright Copper
A deep, mirror polished copper finish for lighting, hardware and decorative pieces, sealed with a clear coat so the color stays rich instead of darkening.
Copper plating in Glendale for owners of Spanish revival and period homes in neighborhoods like Rossmoyne, shops and restaurants along Brand Boulevard and offices downtown. Send your hardware or lighting to our Oceanside shop, and we'll refinish it in copper and insure it home.
Period homes under the Verdugo Mountains.
Glendale spreads from downtown up into the Verdugo foothills, where neighborhoods like Rossmoyne are full of 1920s Spanish revival and Tudor homes. Brand Park holds a Moorish style mansion that now serves as a public library. Downtown along Brand Boulevard is busy with shops, offices and restaurants.
Picture a tiled kitchen backsplash. The wall board is your base metal, the thinset troweled on first is the strike, the tiles are the copper and the grout sealer over it all is the lacquer. Tile set on bare drywall pops loose within a year. Copper set on bare steel does too, which is why the thin first coat never gets skipped.
Rossmoyne and the Verdugo Woodlands send iron sconces, leaded glass lantern frames and arched door pulls. A few Tudor cottages ship strap hinges. Offices along Brand mostly send lobby letters and suite plaques.
Tell us what the part is and what you want it to become. Send a few photos and the base metal if you know it, and we will recommend the right copper process, explain the preparation it needs and send back a written quote.
Spanish and Tudor houses in Glendale nearly always get antique copper. Lobby letters look sharp in satin. Bright copper is mostly for a dining room fixture or a mirror frame. Any of them can stay bare and darken, and iron that's later chromed gets a copper bed first.
A deep, mirror polished copper finish for lighting, hardware and decorative pieces, sealed with a clear coat so the color stays rich instead of darkening.
A brushed, low glare copper with a soft grain. It hides fingerprints and light wear, a favorite for door hardware, cabinet pulls and interior trim.
Copper that is darkened and then relieved by hand, so the high points glow while recesses stay deep brown. Ideal for period restorations and rustic designs.
A heavy acid copper layer that is cut and buffed flat before nickel and chrome. It fills pits and polishing marks and is the foundation of every show chrome job.
A thin first layer that locks onto difficult metals like zinc die cast, steel and brass, giving every layer that follows a solid bond.
Functional copper for conductivity, solderability and heat treat masking. Plated to a specified thickness on bus bars, connectors, shafts and gears.
Drag the handle on any photo to see the part as it arrived and as it left the shop in copper.
Before
Worn, spotted brass with decades of tarnish. Stripped, polished and plated in bright copper, then sealed with a clear lacquer so the warm color stays put.
Before
A full set of levers, plates and hinges with peeling plating. Stripped, copper plated and hand antiqued so the raised details stand out against darker recesses.
Before
Pitted metal with failed chrome. Stripped down, built up in heavy acid copper, then cut and buffed flat to create a perfect base for nickel and chrome.
Over three decades of plating, one shop in Oceanside.
Every part is stripped, prepped, plated and inspected in our own building, and our work comes with a 12 month workmanship guarantee. Send photos and we'll take it from there.
Copper bonds to more base metals than almost any other plating, but each one still needs the right cleaning and the right first layer.
Cleaned and activated, then given a copper strike before the main copper layer. Rusted or pitted steel is stripped and copper filled until the surface is smooth.
Plate beautifully once cleaned. A common way to give brass lighting, hardware and fixtures a true copper color without replacing the part.
Porous and reactive, so it needs a gentle copper strike before anything else. Pits are copper filled and hand buffed flat, the slow work most shops avoid.
Receives a zincate pretreatment so copper can bond to a surface that would otherwise oxidize instantly. Used for wheels, housings and decorative castings.
Its oxide layer resists bonding, so it gets a nickel strike first. After that it takes copper like any other metal, for a warm look on a durable base.
Solid copper can be replated to restore its surface, and other alloys are reviewed case by case. Send the alloy or a photo and we will confirm before you ship.
The same metal, three different goals. Knowing which one your part needs decides how it is prepared, how thick the copper goes on and how it is finished.
Send some photos by email and mention the style of the house. We return a written quote, no strings attached.
Show us the part and tell us the finish you want: bright, satin, antique or a base for chrome.
We confirm the base metal and the prep it needs, then send a written quote within 24 business hours.
Strap hinges here usually wear five decades of black enamel. A gentle stripping bath loosens it without eating into the iron, a brass brush lifts what's left and only then do the hinges see a soft buff and a nickel strike.
Old finishes come off, the surface is repaired and polished, then struck and plated in copper.
Parts are buffed, brushed or antiqued, sealed when needed, inspected and shipped back insured.
Every copper finish and copper related service we run in house.
From custom builders to industrial manufacturers, our clients trust us to deliver the same result every time.
We plate for homeowners, restorers, Brand Boulevard shops and restaurants, offices and property managers.
Slot machine trim, table rails, bar fixtures and gaming floor accents in bright or antique copper, made to glow under bright lights around the clock. Trusted by casino resorts across North County San Diego.
Pendants, sconces, lamp bases and accessories finished in bright, satin or antique copper.
Door handles, hinges, cabinet pulls and railings given a warm copper finish that matches across a project.
Bar rails, foot rests, tap handles and restaurant fixtures that bring copper warmth to a space.
Bus bars, terminals and connectors plated for conductivity and easy soldering.
Gears, shafts and steel parts selectively copper plated to mask areas during carburizing.
We have been running copper tanks since 1989. Restorers, designers, builders and manufacturers send us parts because the copper work underneath is what makes the finish on top last.
Send a photo of your part and receive a no obligation quote within 24 hours.
Every part leaves our shop backed by our craftsmanship guarantee. If you are not satisfied, we make it right.
A single fixture or a full production run, shipped to us from any state and returned insured.
Most projects are completed within 3 to 5 weeks. Expedited Orders: 5 to 7 business days. Contact us for availability.
Copper shows everything. Every scratch left in the base metal and every shortcut in the prep ends up visible in the finish, so we do not take shortcuts.
Difficult metals get the right first layer before the main copper goes on, so the finish stays bonded and does not peel or blister.
Copper is cut and buffed by hand between stages, which is what gives decorative copper its depth and chrome its flawless base.
Finished copper is inspected for even color, gloss and texture, and matched to your sample when you send one.
Soft copper scratches easily, so every finished piece is wrapped separately and packed to arrive exactly as it left the shop.
Verdugo heat and the odd canyon gust.
Summer afternoons in the foothill neighborhoods run hot, and gusts sometimes funnel down the canyons. A light spray of water clears grit off porch copper without scratching. Inside, a cotton cloth with a little soapy water handles sealed pieces.
Copper left bare on a stucco arch slowly turns the color of strong coffee, which suits a 1920s house. Lightly rubbing just the edges with copper cream gives a hint of glow. Glass cleaner sprays haze lacquer, so aim them only at windows.
If you prefer a living finish, we can leave the copper unsealed so it develops its own patina over time. That choice works well on rustic lighting, garden pieces and bar tops where the aging is part of the character.
When a lacquered piece starts to show dark spots, the coating has failed somewhere. Bring it back and we can strip the old lacquer, rebuff the copper and seal it again, usually without replating the whole part.
Copper Plating Gallery
Bright, satin and antique copper on lighting, hardware and hospitality pieces, plus functional copper for electrical and industrial work.
Wrap heavy hinges in pairs, pad scrollwork and keep each set's screws together.
Send photos of every piece and the copper finish you want. You receive a written quote and lead time, usually the same business day. Always wait for a quote number before shipping.
Wrap each part individually so metal never touches metal, and use at least three inches of padding on every side. Long trim and lighting arms should be double boxed.
Declare the real value with the carrier and email us the tracking number so we can log your parts the day they arrive.
When the copper work is done we photograph the finished pieces for your approval, then pack them in fresh materials and ship them back insured.
Every copper job is stripped, plated, buffed and inspected in our own facility in North County San Diego.
Copper, nickel, chrome and metal finishing in San Diego County since 1989.
Glendale parcels by ground generally reach our shop the next business day. Returns travel insured.
Glendale's neighbors north of downtown Los Angeles:
Frequently Asked Questions
Glendale owners of period homes often ask us about these things.
Yes. A gentle bath softens the enamel without biting into the iron, and a brass brush lifts the rest. After a soft buff and a nickel strike, the copper goes on. Most hinges reveal crisp forged edges once five decades of enamel come off.
Iron and copper don't bond well directly, so copper laid on bare iron tends to blister or flake. A thin strike coat sticks to the iron first and then holds the copper, the same way thinset holds tile to a wall.
Very well. The darkened recesses and soft highlights match stucco, clay tile and arched wood doors. Owners in those streets often pair antique lanterns with antique house numbers so the facade reads as one original, unified set.
Yes. Metal sign letters, suite plaques and directory frames plate cleanly. Satin copper reads well under lobby lighting without glare. Send dimensions and a photo of the wall so we can confirm the letters fit our tanks.
Usually, if the glass comes out. Old came and glazing can't go into our baths, so a glass shop should remove the panels first. We plate the metal frame, and the glass is reset afterward for a clean, matching result.
Not at all. Most of what comes through our door is home and business hardware: faucets, light fixtures, door handles, cabinet pulls, railings and decorative pieces. We also work for hotels, restaurants, boat owners and manufacturers.
Tell us what the part is, roughly how big it is, how many pieces you have and the finish you're after. If you know the metal, mention it. If not, that's fine. We can usually tell from the photos.
Every part is quoted on its own. The biggest factors are condition, the base metal, size and shape, the finish you choose and how many pieces you send. A part with deep pits or broken spots takes more work before it can be plated.