Bright Copper
A deep, mirror polished copper finish for lighting, hardware and decorative pieces, sealed with a clear coat so the color stays rich instead of darkening.
Copper plating in Tempe for homeowners in the older ranch neighborhoods, landlords near Arizona State University, and restaurants around Mill Avenue. Ship a sturdy box to us in Oceanside, California, and UPS or FedEx ground handles both legs, usually 1 to 2 business days each way, insured.
From Mill Avenue patios to midcentury ranch houses.
Tempe has some of the oldest housing in the East Valley, with ranch homes from the 1950s and 60s tucked between the campus and the freeways. Many of those houses still have their original light fixtures and door hardware. The metal underneath is usually solid, even where the old plating on top has worn through.
Picture a brass porch light from a house near Kiwanis Park. It reaches us padded, and we log it, photograph it and take it apart. We strip what's left of the old finish, polish out pitting, plate it in copper and lacquer it. Then someone checks every surface under bright light.
Restaurants and bars near Tempe Town Lake send decor too: hood trim, pendant shades, menu holders and table bases. Copper looks warm at night in those rooms, and we can match a sample you already own so old and new fixtures read as one.
Tell us what the part is and what you want it to become. Send a few photos and the base metal if you know it, and we will recommend the right copper process, explain the preparation it needs and send back a written quote.
Pick bright copper for a polished, reflective look, satin for something quieter, or antique if you want darker shading in the details. Each one can be sealed with clear lacquer or left bare to age on its own.
A deep, mirror polished copper finish for lighting, hardware and decorative pieces, sealed with a clear coat so the color stays rich instead of darkening.
A brushed, low glare copper with a soft grain. It hides fingerprints and light wear, a favorite for door hardware, cabinet pulls and interior trim.
Copper that is darkened and then relieved by hand, so the high points glow while recesses stay deep brown. Ideal for period restorations and rustic designs.
A heavy acid copper layer that is cut and buffed flat before nickel and chrome. It fills pits and polishing marks and is the foundation of every show chrome job.
A thin first layer that locks onto difficult metals like zinc die cast, steel and brass, giving every layer that follows a solid bond.
Functional copper for conductivity, solderability and heat treat masking. Plated to a specified thickness on bus bars, connectors, shafts and gears.
Drag the handle on any photo to see the part as it arrived and as it left the shop in copper.
Before
Worn, spotted brass with decades of tarnish. Stripped, polished and plated in bright copper, then sealed with a clear lacquer so the warm color stays put.
Before
A full set of levers, plates and hinges with peeling plating. Stripped, copper plated and hand antiqued so the raised details stand out against darker recesses.
Before
Pitted metal with failed chrome. Stripped down, built up in heavy acid copper, then cut and buffed flat to create a perfect base for nickel and chrome.
Not sure what your part needs? Send us a photo.
We'll tell you what the metal is, what it takes to bring it back and what it costs. A written quote usually comes back within 24 business hours, and there's no obligation.
Copper bonds to more base metals than almost any other plating, but each one still needs the right cleaning and the right first layer.
Cleaned and activated, then given a copper strike before the main copper layer. Rusted or pitted steel is stripped and copper filled until the surface is smooth.
Plate beautifully once cleaned. A common way to give brass lighting, hardware and fixtures a true copper color without replacing the part.
Porous and reactive, so it needs a gentle copper strike before anything else. Pits are copper filled and hand buffed flat, the slow work most shops avoid.
Receives a zincate pretreatment so copper can bond to a surface that would otherwise oxidize instantly. Used for wheels, housings and decorative castings.
Its oxide layer resists bonding, so it gets a nickel strike first. After that it takes copper like any other metal, for a warm look on a durable base.
Solid copper can be replated to restore its surface, and other alloys are reviewed case by case. Send the alloy or a photo and we will confirm before you ship.
The same metal, three different goals. Knowing which one your part needs decides how it is prepared, how thick the copper goes on and how it is finished.
Every Tempe order follows the same five steps, and you'll hear from us at each point where a decision is yours.
Show us the part and tell us the finish you want: bright, satin, antique or a base for chrome.
We confirm the base metal and the prep it needs, then send a written quote within 24 business hours.
Prep starts with stripping and degreasing, then polishing out scratches and pits. Old fixtures from campus area rentals often hide layers of paint, so we take everything back to bare metal first.
Old finishes come off, the surface is repaired and polished, then struck and plated in copper.
Parts are buffed, brushed or antiqued, sealed when needed, inspected and shipped back insured.
Every copper finish and copper related service we run in house.
From custom builders to industrial manufacturers, our clients trust us to deliver the same result every time.
Our Tempe customers include homeowners, rental owners near the university, restaurant groups, office designers fitting out the new buildings by the lake, and sign shops that need copper letters.
Slot machine trim, table rails, bar fixtures and gaming floor accents in bright or antique copper, made to glow under bright lights around the clock. Trusted by casino resorts across North County San Diego.
Pendants, sconces, lamp bases and accessories finished in bright, satin or antique copper.
Door handles, hinges, cabinet pulls and railings given a warm copper finish that matches across a project.
Bar rails, foot rests, tap handles and restaurant fixtures that bring copper warmth to a space.
Bus bars, terminals and connectors plated for conductivity and easy soldering.
Gears, shafts and steel parts selectively copper plated to mask areas during carburizing.
We have been running copper tanks since 1989. Restorers, designers, builders and manufacturers send us parts because the copper work underneath is what makes the finish on top last.
Send a photo of your part and receive a no obligation quote within 24 hours.
Every part leaves our shop backed by our craftsmanship guarantee. If you are not satisfied, we make it right.
A single fixture or a full production run, shipped to us from any state and returned insured.
Most projects are completed within 3 to 5 weeks. Expedited Orders: 5 to 7 business days. Contact us for availability.
Copper shows everything. Every scratch left in the base metal and every shortcut in the prep ends up visible in the finish, so we do not take shortcuts.
Difficult metals get the right first layer before the main copper goes on, so the finish stays bonded and does not peel or blister.
Copper is cut and buffed by hand between stages, which is what gives decorative copper its depth and chrome its flawless base.
Finished copper is inspected for even color, gloss and texture, and matched to your sample when you send one.
Soft copper scratches easily, so every finished piece is wrapped separately and packed to arrive exactly as it left the shop.
Dry heat, hard water, and a simple routine.
Tempe water is hard, so anything near a sink ends up with chalky rings. Wipe copper dry after it gets wet instead of letting water evaporate on it. For rings that already formed, a damp cloth and a little dish soap usually lift them without harming the lacquer.
Patio misters are everywhere here, and their spray coats nearby fixtures every afternoon, so aim nozzles away from copper lights. Indoors, skip polishes made for solid copper on lacquered pieces; they're abrasive and wear through the clear coat.
If you prefer a living finish, we can leave the copper unsealed so it develops its own patina over time. That choice works well on rustic lighting, garden pieces and bar tops where the aging is part of the character.
When a lacquered piece starts to show dark spots, the coating has failed somewhere. Bring it back and we can strip the old lacquer, rebuff the copper and seal it again, usually without replating the whole part.
Copper Plating Gallery
Bright, satin and antique copper on lighting, hardware and hospitality pieces, plus functional copper for electrical and industrial work.
Wrap each fixture separately, remove bulbs and glass, and tape small screws in a labeled bag so nothing goes missing.
Send photos of every piece and the copper finish you want. You receive a written quote and lead time, usually the same business day. Always wait for a quote number before shipping.
Wrap each part individually so metal never touches metal, and use at least three inches of padding on every side. Long trim and lighting arms should be double boxed.
Declare the real value with the carrier and email us the tracking number so we can log your parts the day they arrive.
When the copper work is done we photograph the finished pieces for your approval, then pack them in fresh materials and ship them back insured.
Every copper job is stripped, plated, buffed and inspected in our own facility in North County San Diego.
Copper, nickel, chrome and metal finishing in San Diego County since 1989.
Parcels from the East Valley usually spend 1 to 2 business days on a UPS or FedEx ground truck before they reach Oceanside, California. Our receiving dock is open Monday to Friday, 8 to 4 Pacific, and return boxes are insured.
Nearby cities in the Valley where we also plate copper.
Frequently Asked Questions
Tempe questions about older fixtures, rentals and copper on restaurant decor.
Often it is. Fixtures from that era tend to be solid brass or steel, heavier than most modern replacements, and they plate well once the old finish is gone. Send front and back photos. If a piece is cracked or badly corroded, we'll say it isn't worth the money.
Yes, and we see it a lot, since matching hardware across units makes turnover easier. Label each unit's parts in its own bag so everything goes back the same way. Satin copper works well for rentals because it hides fingerprints and small scuffs better than bright copper does.
Plating only covers surfaces it can reach, and joints hide old corrosion. With the arm, backplate and shade separated, every face gets stripped, polished and coated evenly. We also check threads and seams, then reassemble the piece so it mounts the way it did before.
Copper fills very fine scratches, which is one reason it's used under nickel and chrome as a leveling layer. Deep pits are different. We polish those down during prep, because plating follows the surface it sits on. If a pit goes too deep, a faint mark may still show after plating.
Usually, yes. Send the sample along with the parts, and we'll compare finishes under the same light before and after plating. Antique copper is the hardest to match exactly, because the shading is done by hand, but we can get close enough that the pieces read as one set.
Yes, and most of our work starts that way. We strip the old plating down to the base metal, repair what needs repair, then plate it fresh. New plating over a failing layer never lasts, so we don't do it.
We do. Along with single pieces for homeowners, we run batches of hundreds or thousands of parts for companies in California and other states. Send a photo of a sample, the quantity and the finish, and we'll quote the whole run.
Steel, stainless steel, aluminum, brass, bronze, copper, pot metal and zamak. Some of them need extra prep so the plating bonds well, and we'll tell you up front if your part does.